Adam Liaw's tuna mornay is a classic dish that has stood the test of time, and for good reason. It's a budget-friendly, family-friendly meal that can be made with just a few simple ingredients. But what makes this dish truly special is the way it challenges one of the most stubborn rules in cooking: the 'dumbest rule in cooking' as Liaw calls it. This rule, which states that seafood and cheese should never be combined, is simply not true. In fact, seafood and cheese are paired in almost every cuisine that has access to both, from lobster thermidor in France to prawn saganaki in Greece. So, let's dive into the world of tuna mornay and explore why it's such a beloved dish, and how you can make it your own.
The Secret to a Better Mornay
Mornay is a classic French sauce that begins with a bechamel, one of the French 'mother sauces' made by whisking milk into a blond roux of equal parts butter and flour. From that smooth bechamel base, grated cheese is added to produce a mornay. The cheese is classically a mix of gruyere and parmesan, with the gruyere providing body and texture, and the parmesan adding strength and savouriness. However, in Australia, we often use 'tasty cheese', a kind of mild cheddar, which lacks the strength of parmesan. This means our mornay sauces are creamy and cheesy, but lack savouriness. To fix this, Liaw suggests adding a teaspoon or two of vegetable stock powder, which is an affordable and easy way to add depth of flavour.
The Dumbest Rule in Cooking
The 'rule' against mixing seafood and cheese is possibly the stupidest in all of cooking, as Liaw points out. Seafood and cheese are paired in almost every cuisine that has access to both, from lobster thermidor in France to tuna melts in the US. Even in Italy, the coastal cuisines of Sicily and Venice are full of dishes such as swordfish involtini and cozze gratinate (baked mussels) that combine the two. So, don't let anyone tell you it's wrong to combine seafood and cheese. In fact, it's one of the best things about tuna mornay.
Save Your Pasta from Drying Out
For any al forno pastas, or pasta bakes, as we like to call them, the classic Italian trick is to undercook the pasta by a few minutes so it's well short of al dente. Then, add a splash of the starchy pasta water to the mix before it goes into the oven. This gives the pasta the extra liquid it needs to finish cooking perfectly, without drawing all the moisture out of your sauce and leaving the dish dry.
Spin it Your Own Way
This basic, budget-friendly version of tuna mornay is just the beginning. You can swap out the 'tasty cheese' for a sharp mature cheddar, or go all out with a classic French mix of gruyere and parmesan. If you want a change from tuna, canned salmon is an easy switch. You could also elevate the whole dish by baking a fresh salmon fillet for 10 minutes, flaking it into large, succulent pieces and folding them through the sauce. For a green twist, replace the cheese with cooked spinach for a Florentine-style bake, or simply add the spinach alongside the cheese. And if you're feeling luxurious, turn it into a proper seafood mornay by adding diced ling, prawns, or even a good-quality marinara mix.
Say No to Soggy Crumbs
Texture helps take your tuna mornay from average to excellent. A crisp breadcrumb topping is the perfect finish. However, I recommend cooking your topping separately, rather than scattering it over the pasta before baking. If you bake them together, some of the breadcrumbs will inevitably absorb the mornay sauce and become soggy. Instead, frying coarse crumbs, or even small cubes of bread, in a mix of butter, olive oil, and garlic creates deliciously crunchy garlic breadcrumbs. This gives you the perfect pangrattato topping to scatter over the bake just before serving.
In conclusion, Adam Liaw's tuna mornay is a classic dish that challenges one of the most stubborn rules in cooking. It's a budget-friendly, family-friendly meal that can be made with just a few simple ingredients, and it's one that you can spin your own way. So, don't let the 'dumbest rule in cooking' stop you from making this delicious dish. Instead, follow Liaw's masterclass and enjoy a creamy, crumb-topped winner in your household.
